Iloilo: Where the Past is Always Present

Preserving Tradition Amidst Modernity in the City of Love

By Aph Cruz, photos by Alexander Percival M. Española  

While Iloilo City has gained the reputation as a culinary destination, even being hailed as the first Creative City of Gastronomy in the Philippines by the United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization (UNESCO)- it has more to offer than a steaming bowl of rich and savory batchoy and pancit molo or a cup of hot tablea paired with buttery biscocho.

Nestled in the eastern part of Panay Island in Western Visayas, Iloilo is a confluence of iconic cultural landmarks, well-preserved heritage structures, historical churches, immersive museums, and enigmatic ancestral houses.

Standing as one of the most prominent churches in Iloilo province, the Santo Tomás de Villanueva Parish, also known as Miag-ao Church, was built in 1786 by Spanish Augustinian missionaries. Flanked by two watchtower belfries, the Miag-ao Church showcases a blend of Spanish and native influences. In 1993, it was declared as a UNESCO World Heritage Site under the "Baroque Churches of the Philippines" listing.

Roughly two hours away from the city, Garin Farm Pilgrimage Resort is a popular tourist destination located in San Joaquin. It is known for its picturesque landscapes, recreational facilities, agricultural attractions, and religious elements. One of its main attractions is a hilltop chapel adorned with biblical sculptures depicting the life of Jesus Christ. Visitors can climb the "stairway to heaven," a series of steps representing the path to spiritual enlightenment, leading to the chapel.

Dating back to 1587, the Jaro Metropolitan Cathedral, also known as the National Shrine of Our Lady of the Candles, is renowned for its stunning architecture, which features a blend of Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque styles. One of the cathedral's most notable features is its towering bell tower that survived numerous earthquakes and natural disasters throughout its history. The cathedral also houses the miraculous image of the Our Lady of the Candles, a revered Marian figure venerated by devotees from all over the country.

Built in 1831, the Molo Church, formally known as the Church of St. Anne Parish, is recognized for its neo-gothic architectural style characterized by pointed arches. Owing to its historical and cultural importance, the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP) declared Molo Church as a National Historical Landmark in 1992. The Molo Church is also commonly referred to as the Feminist or Women’s Church due to the 16 statues of female saints adorning its walls.

The city also boasts a rich heritage that can be seen in its ancestral houses such as Casa Mariquit, Lizares Mansion, Nelly’s Garden, Lopez Boat House, and the Sanson y Montinola Mansion. Embracing the concept of adaptive reuse, some of these ancestral houses have been transformed and ingeniously repurposed into restaurants such as Camiña Balay nga Bato, famed for its native chocolate and biscuits, and Balay Remedios, a newly opened restaurant serving Filipino-Spanish cuisine.

Another testament to Iloilo's commitment to preserving arts, culture, and heritage is evident in its diverse array of museums. Among them are the Museo Iloilo, NHCP Museum of Philippine Maritime History, NHCP Museum of Philippine Economic History, National Museum of the Philippines - Western Visayas, Iloilo Museum of Contemporary Art, Brandy Museum, University of the Philippines Visayas Museum of Art and Cultural Heritage.

Dubbed as the city where the past is always present, Iloilo is proof that tradition and history can meld seamlessly with modernity and innovation. Despite the rise of skyscrapers and modern townships brought about by rapid urbanization and economic development, Iloilo still exudes a beguiling old-world charm reminiscent of its stature as the first Queen City of the South.

As the city embraces progress, it continues to pay homage to its rich and storied past, ensuring that its cultural heritage remains an integral part of its identity- never to be forgotten by generations to come.