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PINOYS ABROAD: Filipino Restaurants on the Global Stage|By Joel Pascual

  • 2 hours ago
  • 6 min read

In my travels, while I always try to immerse myself in the local culture through its cuisine, whenever possible, I also try to visit a Filipino or Filipino chef-led restaurant just to see how our food translates — and triumphs — far from home. 



I still remember my early foray into trying Philippine food was in the 80s in Los Angeles and was limited to eating at Point Point Junction (turo-turo style), Goldilocks (a famous local chain), Via Mare (a Filipino icon), and even Aristocrat of the Orient (a knock-off of the original).  At that time, these restaurants were patronized only by fellow Filipinos.


Fast forward to the last decade, I have become more discerning in my choices - seeking establishments that are making headway and putting Pinoy food in the culinary map. Here are some of the restaurants I’ve tried over the years, and why I believe they matter:



KUYA LORD (Los Angeles, California)


Chef: Lord Maynard Llera 


What it is: A straightforward, proudly Filipino kitchen in L.A. where the food tastes exactly like how families actually eat in the Philippines — unpretentious, comfort-forward, and intensely flavorful. What stood out to me was how simple preparations (perfect adobo, clean sinigang, soulful viands on rice) are presented with reverence rather than flash.


Why it matters: Llera was named California’s Best Chef in 2024 by the James Beard Foundation, a milestone that was a moment of pride for the Filipino community.  It’s the kind of recognition usually reserved for haute or trend-forward concepts but awarded here to a chef for his culinary ode to the humble dishes of home. That the same food you’d share at a family table can be honored internationally is a powerful reminder of cuisine as culture and memory.  



RANG’S COCINA MODERNE (Las Vegas, Nevada)


Chef: Rang Tan


What it is: An intimate, chef-driven spot that blends Western techniques with Filipino flavors and ingredients. Tan trained and then ran her own catering company in Manila before packing everything up and opening her own restaurant in Vegas.  On the menu you’ll find Filipino-inflected offerings like Lengua Salpicao, Binagoongang Pork Belly with Coconut Risotto and bistek alongside European-style plates. Her culinary style is described as tradition reimagined, flavor redefined and blends Filipino, Spanish, Italian, and Asian influences. 


Why it matters: Rang’s has earned international acclaim and awards, including the 2024 Rising Star of the Year by the Nevada Restaurant Association’s Culinary Excellence Awards, Tripadvisor’s Travelers’ Choice 2025, and recognized by Yelp as the highest-rated woman-owned restaurant in the U.S.


The restaurant has a fierce loyal following — locals repeatedly call it a hidden gem and praise the inventive, comforting food. It’s a great example of how Filipino identity can be expressed via cross-cultural technique without losing its heart.  



Mano Modern Café (Chicago, Illinois)


Chef: Melvin Reyes


What it is: A neighborhood counter-service café serving Filipino classics alongside coffee and breakfast/lunch fare. Think straightforward, well-executed staples — lumpia, longganisa, hearty rice plates — presented for daily life rather than spectacle.


Why it matters: Mano Modern is exactly the kind of place that keeps communities fed and travelers grounded. Chef Melvin Reyes and the cafe exemplify how Filipino home cooking adapts to a café format while retaining the comforting, nostalgic flavors that define the cuisine. It’s the sort of spot you stop in for repeat visits because the food is reliable, familiar, and undeniably Filipino.



TRADISYON (New York, New York)



Chef/Co-Founder: Anton Dayrit


What it is: A fast-casual, fast-beating tribute to Filipino home cooking — bowls and plates that read like what you’re eating at a turo-turo or mom-and-pop spot in Manila, but built for New York’s pace. The founders’ mission is to make traditional Filipino food accessible and familiar to a wide audience.


Why it matters: Tradisyon manages to walk the fine line between authenticity and approachability: the food feels close to home for Filipinos and readable for first-timers. During my visit I noticed a steady stream of non-Filipino customers picking up takeout — a small signal that the place has earned habitual, repeat business beyond the Filipino community. The team behind Tradisyon has also expanded into related projects, reflecting broader appetite for Filipino flavors in the city.  


Pig & Khao (New York, New York)



Chef: Leah Cohen


What it is: This restaurant is a bold, boundary-pushing restaurant that blends Filipino and Southeast Asian flavors with a modern, urban edge. Known for unapologetically rich dishes—crispy pork, funky sauces, and vibrant spices—it celebrates the kind of food meant to be shared and savored. Rooted in Chef Leah Cohen’s Filipino heritage, Pig and Khao brings street-food soul into a contemporary dining experience that’s loud, flavorful, and proudly unrefined.


Why it matters:  Cohen trained at the Culinary Institute of America and worked in top kitchens and has received the Star Chefs Rising Stars Award.  She traveled across Southeast Asia to deepen her understanding of the region’s flavors that became the heart of Pig & Khao’s bold menu, which draws on Filipino, Thai, Malaysian, and Vietnamese influences. After gaining national exposure on Top Chef (Season 5), the restaurant has earned praise from major publications including The New York Times, New York Magazine, and The Huffington Post for its inventive food and lively atmosphere.  


REYNA (Paris, France)



Chef: Erica Paredes


What it is: A compact, stylish Parisian restaurant where Chef Erica Paredes brings Filipino flavors into a French-dining context. Dishes lean on Filipino ingredients (calamansi, bagoong, coconut, kinilaw-style preparations) while using classical French techniques and a seasonal approach.


Why it matters: Paredes has been noticed by major food press, with Reyna’s cited in Bon Appetit’s Best Restaurants in Paris list— a sign that Filipino flavors can be translated into an elegant, modern dining language without losing identity. If you’re traveling through Paris and want a taste of Filipino cooking elevated through technique and seasonal French sensibility, Reyna is a brilliant stop.  


Special Mentions


My story won’t be complete without mentioning Purple Yam of Amy Besa and Chef Romy Dorotan, who are widely acknowledged for their work in bringing recognition to Filipino cuisine in the U.S. We featured Amy in a past Culinarian issue and also did a side-by-side story on Purple Yam New York and Purple Yam Malate. I was lucky enough to have enjoyed the unique dishes of Chef Romy and am saddened by the restaurant’s closing. Despite this, the couple continue their work to promote and bring recognition to Filipino cuisine and culture. 

A few years ago, we dined at Dix-Huit in Paris where Chef Aaron Isip served as chef de cuisine.  His French cuisine with subtle Filipino/Asian influence garnered him the prestigious Gault et Millau’s Chef Espoir recognition in 2015.  He has since returned to the Philippines and has just gotten a Michelin star for his Kasa Palma restaurant.


We also visited Chef Tom Cunanan’s PogiBoy in Washington D.C., a Filipino fast casual restaurant that was finalist in the Hottest Sandwhich Spot of the Rammy Awards. Their signature Tocino Burger also landed on the cover of Food & Wine magazine in 2022. Sadly, the establishment has recently closed. 


And then, of course, there is Jollibee, now a global powerhouse and is proudly Filipino.  We’ve lent our support for the Filipino brand in places like Rome, LA, New York, Dubai ,and London not only to check out its consistency but also to quickly “bring us home” when homesickness starts setting in.


Finally, any list like this would be remiss without the mention of Kasama in Chicago, the first Filipino restaurant awarded a Michelin star.   I can’t say I did not try to get in but the lines were simply too long.  I might not have been able to try out the food but I still came away with intense pride not only for its Michelin triumph but, more importantly, on how widely accepted it has been as a restaurant of choice.


Final Thoughts

Of all the places I visited, I am proudest of the restaurants that served the food exactly as how the Filipino would eat it at home – no fusion, no pretenses, no finessing.  For such food to find a global audience is indicative that the Filipino cuisine is indeed ready for the global stage.  We may no longer be just “the next big thing” as earlier predicted by both Chef Anthony Bourdain and Chef Andrew Zimmern, with the above Filipino chef trailblazers, we might already be at the doorstep.


 
 
 

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